Today my morning started early with a visit to Mother Ganga
and a beautiful boat ride across her.
On the riverbank you could see lots of men having their daily bath in
this sacred river and a young baby getting his head shaven for the first
time. Looking out onto the water I
felt so calm and at peace and even the river herself was perfectly flat. This place was so amazing you could
just feel the energy that came off the water. Before Don, Krishna and I climb into our boat that would
take us up and down the river the sun started to come up over the hills. The sun was big and bright orange and
it wasn’t covered in a haze, Krishna said they haven’t seen a sun like this in
over a month. I took it as a sign
that today was the day to go swimming in the holy river. When I climb into the boat and looked
down the riverbank and into the water I had an overpowering feeling to start
crying because everything was so beautiful. I couldn’t decide if it was because I missed my parents so
much and felt like they should have been there with me or it was because I was
in such a holy place in India and I couldn’t believe it; might be both. As I tried to find my inner calm so I
didn’t start sobbing into the river the boat paddled of upstream. Krishna told us that the water levels
get so high they flood all the way up to the top steps, which is a good 40 feet
or so. We drifted past a dead calf
in the water and Krishna asked if I still wanted to go in, I laughed and said
of course. All the signs for me to
go in the water were here today; tons of black birds, two kingfishers
(represent Shiva with their blue), jumping fish and a beautifully warm and
clear day unlike any other. We
passed many bathers and finally crossed over to the sand bank where I slipped
into the water (which was freezing cold) and swam to shore. Before I got there completely I lit my
candle and let it sail off into the water surrounded by flowers, I felt so
peaceful. I changed on the side of
the bank in a tiny cloth square and stepped back into the boat feeling fresh
and just perfect.
Here we go!
Shaving ceremony.
Mother Ganga
Good morning sun!
So red!
All the swimmers
Across we go.
Don and I
In I go.
It was so cold as you can clearly see by my expression.
Sun salutations... nice bum
Time to change
Offering to Ganges
Complete.
Feeding the birdies
We sailed back down the Ganges and passed the crematories where there were two burning bodies, it all seemed quite strange in a good way. We stepped off the boat and walked past the Ghats into the narrow streets of Varanasi. We walked for a while through slippery brown streets and found a little vendor selling fried potato things… I had two and they were absolutely delicious! Our walked continued through the streets only big enough for two people but somehow scooters and bikes managed to squeeze through and pass us. There were lots of dogs and even more cows that lived along the streets here doing as they pleased, sometimes in the middle of traffic. It wasn’t long before we were back in the car and headed to the hotel for breakfast… and shower.
The burning Gahts.
Getting the body ready.
He charged me for the photo...
My lovely cows.
Where I had a snack or two...
Not that I felt dirty at, I felt fairly refreshed but I figured it would be a good idea to shower just in case. I headed up for a quick breakfast and then to the silk shop to see if I couldn’t find a material for a saree that I enjoyed… I did! It is a beautiful turquoise color that matches my hair and green eyes, I tried many fabrics but this was the one I spotted first and it went so well.
Off we went again to see different spots of Buddha and where he gave his first lesson and where some of his relics remain. I really wanted to see the original bodhi tree that Buddha became enlightened under but was told that it was cut down so many years ago. I was in absolute shock that a person could be capable of cutting down such a sacred and old tree… I can’t stand people sometimes. We did see the grandson of the original tree and I bowed down to the tree in worship.
Next place we went was the place where Buddha’s relics are kept in a giant brick mound. We walked around all the excavation grounds and saw all these gold squares pressed to the remains of everything, Krishna said this is what the pilgrims do to honor Buddha; like a promise they made if they made it here. Next place we went was to the giant statue of Buddha that is 30 meters tall. This is the place where I picked up a bodhi tree leaf and took it home with me… another thing for me to add to my collection.
Buddha would meditate somewhere here it is said
What is left
The Bodhi tree
A temple
Relics of Buddha inside.
The enormous statue of Buddha.
Finally it was time to go home for lunch, it couldn’t have come at a better time because I was so ready to start eating. I had pizza and apple pie for lunch and soon enough we were off again on another adventure.
We met Krishna in a street somewhere and had tea from a street vendor… this would be my third time having it off the streets and can proudly say I haven’t gotten sick yet. From this place we took buggies pulled by bikes to a cow house. I met the nicest Brahma cows that were all married to one bull; he was absolutely massive! He had the biggest head and face I have ever seen on a cow before. When we left the house of cows we walked through the very small streets of Varanasi, if it weren’t for Krishna Don and I would have gotten very lost. The streets honestly go everywhere and lead to nowhere; I think you have to be born here to know how to navigate the streets.
Time for a ride.
MOOO
Cow!!!!!
He carries cow poo on his head.
All wires when you look up... and some monkeys too
Beautiful Bramha cow.
Finally we made it down to Mother Ganga again and took another boat ride up to see all the burning ceremonies going on. I couldn’t believe how many bodies were being burned at a time; 10 bodies in total. We even got to see a priest throw the last remains of a body part into the Ganges. As we paddled up to the ceremonies to Mother Ganga all I could hear was singing and drums. We found a place to sit right beside the men who were singing so beautifully and soon the devotees of Mother Ganga began. There was lots of fire and smoke of different kinds coming from different things, bells ringing and chanting. It was absolutely beautiful! A little girl came up to me during the ceremony and started drawing silver and gold flowers on my hand and when she was done she ran off in to the crowd, it was the cutest thing ever. At the end of the ceremony I got a red powdered bindi placed on my forehead and walked through the bazaars of Varanasi. This is where I got my first Malah made of sacred seeds and sandalwood oil to rub on them every morning when I wake up. It all smells so good! As sad as it was to say goodbye it had to be done and that was the last time I will see Krishna… this year at least.
Finally back again
Even more burnings!
Thousands come here to watch.
Fire Power!
The bull lives in the shop, people say it is the shop owner reborn as the bull and watches over the store.
Goodbye new friend!
As soon as we got back to the hotel I went to try on my new Saree! It was done so quickly and so perfectly that when I got back to my room I decided I would wear it to dinner with Don tonight. The only problem was trying to wrap it around my body… it is honestly the most difficult piece of clothing to put on in the entire world. I got so frustrated with the silly thing I ended up just putting on jeans and a shirt and left it. Don paid for our last meal together, which only ended up being $12 as funny as that is and we reminisced about how amazing it is here. Varanasi has got to be one of my most favorite places in India so far because it is just so beautiful here. I must admit though that I got tears in my eyes every time we came to visit Mother Ganges or even when I thought about her, it was just that amazing down there.
I concluded my night with packing and a meditation with my new Malah; it smells so good with sandalwood oil on it.
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